She even published her own in house newspaper called Mori Hanae Ryuko Tsushin. She published many articles and books in Japan all about the latest fashion news from all around the world as well as the process behind fashion design and insights on her own work. Not only did she create fashion but Madame Mori was a avid commentator on it as well. The second iteration of the uniforms boosted mini skirts, a very scandalous choice considering the mini skirt had only been invented a few years prior! Today when you think of airline attendant outfits, cutting edge fashion isn’t exactly the first thing which comes to mind, but this couldn’t be further from the truth for the designs by Mori. She was commissioned to make three different sets of outfits for flight attendants on Japan Air Lines. Many of her fans where accustomed to flying first class, but alas they wouldn’t be the only ones on the plane wearing a Hanae Mori original. But she wasn’t afraid to break tradition and also put her own twist on things, having once said “The whole Japanese concept of beauty is based on concealment, I realized I should change my approach and help a woman stand out.” Her clothes evidently spoke to women all across the world, at her height she amassed a clothing empire bringing in over $230 million a year. Japanese textiles were manufactured by her husband, whose family owned a textile mill to create her gorgeous gowns. Mori paid homage to her culture through bright colors and patterns, as well as silhouettes containing elements of kimonos, obi belts and other elements of yofuku style. Fashion designer Hanae Mori fitting model Miki Irie, Japan, 1966 At the height of her design career she had a salon on Avenue Montaigne and attracted Princess Grace of Monaco, Sophia Loren, Hillary Clinton and Nancy Reagan as client. This wasn’t the only honor she would receive from the French, as she was awarded the Order of Légion d’Honneur by former French President François Mitterand in 1989. Think of it as the most exclusive club for the most exclusive fashion designers, comprised of members like Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld and Schiaparelli. After taking the leap from costuming films, Mori became the first Asian woman to be admitted as an official haute couture design house to the Fédération Française de la Couture the official council of high fashion. She presented her first ever runway collection at New York Fashion Week in 1965 after a trip to Paris where she met Coco Chanel who personally encouraged her to take a real shot at ready-to-wear. Mori set up shop in Shinjuku in 1951 where hundreds of costumes for Japanese films would come to life. She ended up joining the female workforce during the war and got a taste of fashion from Europe when she saw army wives wearing designs inspired by the works of Christian Dior. She felt like an outcast wearing western clothes while many of her classmates wore kimonos to school. She grew up during World War II and later published work about it later. Her father was a surgeon who was very interested in all things fashion and culture. Hanae Mori Hanae Mori Haute Couture 1992 summer photo by Guy Marineauīorn in Yoshika in 1926, Hanae grew up in a very cultural household. She later would be referred to as Madame Mori. After seeing that production she decided to make the butterfly one of her signature motifs in her burgeoning clothing empire. So she decided to change the narrative on her own. She felt that the kimonos were not worn with the care, grace and respect that they would receive in Japan. At one production of the ballet, an audience member named Hanae Mori was unsatisfied with how her home country was being portrayed on stage. One example of this admiration of Japanese aesthetics without a true understanding of the culture behind it is Madame Butterfly – originally published as a short story by John Luther Long and later adapted into an opera by Giacomo Puccini, neither of whom had ever actually been to Japan themselves. But while the art coming out of Japan was often appreciated and admired, the asian artists themselves have not always been welcomed with such open arms. European fashion designers have been inspired by Japan since it open its borders for trade in 1853.
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